Sept 18 to Oct 1, 2024
Extremadura, Toledo, Talavera de la Reina, and Madrid
Susan had a conference in Europe, so we decided to meet in Madrid and explore Extremadura. Extremadura is known for being one of the least visited, least touristy parts of Spain – and after spending two weeks there, we’re completely dumfounded as to why. We found the area to be fascinating.
Extremadura has a huge number of medieval walled cities, castles, and like other parts of Spain, its own language. We had been there over decade before, mostly staying in Caceres. This time we based ourselves in Plasencia, took some day trips from there, then traveled thru Talavera de la Reina, Toledo, and then back to Madrid. Due to our itinerary, we rented a car for part of the trip, and took the train for other parts.
Plasencia has one of Spain’s best paradors. Housed in the 15th-century Convent of Santo Domingo, this stunning parador features Gothic architecture, thick stone walls, and vaulted ceilings. Highlights included the Isabeline cloister and a magnificent 1577 hanging staircase. It was constructed directly upon the former Mota Synagogue. We took a one-hour tour of the parador to learn the history and see some of the rooms that were not generally open and were fascinated. The parador is located in the heart of Plasencia on a lovely square, and offered a perfect base for exploring the city’s medieval history.
Plasencia is defined by its cathedral complex: the 13th-century Romanesque-Gothic “Old Cathedral”, and the 16th-century “New Cathedral,” featuring a breathtaking Plateresque facade. Together, they house a museum and a serene cloister. The city is encircled by intact medieval walls with over 70 towers; an interpretation center, and panoramic views. At the heart of Plasencia lies the Plaza Mayor, home to the 16th-century Town Hall and the “Mayorga” clock figure. Other highlights include the Parque de Los Pinos with the medieval San Antón Aqueduct, the Marquis of Mirabel Palace – and lots of peacocks. Plasencia also had a large and wealthy Jewish community. Very little remains of the Plasencia’s Juderia.
We used Plasencia to explore the region, making two day-trips:
Trip 1: Galisteo, Coria, Travejo
Galisteo is defined by its remarkably preserved crenelated Almohad walls, built entirely from smooth river stones. This medieval fortress overlooks the Jerte River, offering a silhouette against the Spanish landscape. Inside the walls, the Puerta del Rey serves as a grand entrance to narrow streets leading to the Church of Santa María, famous for its exquisite Mudejar-style brickwork. The towering Picota, a remnant of the old castle, provides panoramic views of the surrounding plains.
Coria, is an historical city situated on the Alagón River. Its remarkably preserved Roman walls, dating to the 3rd century, feature twenty towers and four original gates. The Catedral de Santa María de la Asunción is a Gothic marvel, housing the Sacred Tablecloth of the Last Supper. We also explored the 15th-century Castle of the Dukes of Alba, the 17th century Bishop’s palace and visited the Renaissance-era Puente Viejo bridge, which spans a now-dry riverbed.
We ended our day in Trevejo, a tiny village in the Sierra de Gata mountains. We drove thru dense fog to visit the small untouched medieval stone village and the ruins of the Castillo de Trevejo, a ruined fortress atop a rocky peak. This secluded medieval village is known for its perfectly preserved stone architecture. The fog gave it a sense of mystery, and we saw almost no one as we walked around.
Trip 2: Hervas, Granadilla, and Ciudad Romana de Cáparra.
Hervás, set in the Ambroz Valley, is known for its Judería, one of Spain’s best-preserved Jewish quarters, with many of the houses once occupied by Jews, conversos, and crypto-Jews. Many Jewish families settled here from the 15th century on. Some remained in Hervas following their expulsion from Spain in 1492; although they officially converted to Christianity, they continued to practice Judaism secretly. This steep, medieval labyrinth features narrow cobblestone alleys like Calle de la Sinagoga, Calle Rabilero, and Travesía del Moral, which is famously only 14 inches wide. The architecture is unique, utilizing chestnut wood frameworks and sun-dried adobe bricks. By the river, the Fuente Chiquita bridge offered a great view of this historic, Sephardic-region. Hervás is also known for its artisan pastries, like the traditional treats pollorones and roscones. We made sure to stop by Dulces Hermanos Herrero, a well-known traditional pastry shop. We were struck by the many signs in two languages – Spanish and Extremaduran.
Granadilla is a perfectly preserved medieval “ghost village”, founded by Muslims in the 9th century. It was evacuated in the 1950s due to dam construction that never actually submerged the town, its imposing walls now overlook a reservoir, offering a unique, preserved historical atmosphere. Unfortunately, it is now gated so that an entry fee can be collected, and was closed for lunch and we were only able to view it from outside.
The Ciudad Romana de Cáparra is a major Roman archaeological site along the ancient Vía de la Plata. Its most defining feature is the 1st-century “tetrapylon,” a rare four-sided Roman triumphal arch—the only one of its kind preserved in Spain. Once a flourishing municipality under Emperor Vespasian, the site has a forum, public baths, and an amphitheater. We were able to walk along original Roman paving stones that once connected Asturias to Andalusia.
We took the train to Talavera de la Reina, a bustling city in our path back to Madrid. Talavera is the center of ceramic art in Spain. The park benches, churches, and businesses are covered with amazing azulejos. Some of the most amazing were the Basilica of Nuestra Señora del Prado. Known as the “Sistine Chapel of Ceramics,” it houses an unparalleled collection of 16th to 20th-century tiles, including the famous “Procession of the Virgins” mural. The Ruiz de Luna Ceramic Museum, located in a former convent, showcases the city’s artistic evolution, featuring rare Renaissance panels. Throughout the city, there were numerous murals, benches, facades, and literally everything covered with ceramic tiles.
We then took a bus to Toledo. Toledo was the medieval capital of Spain, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its well-preserved center. It was known as the “City of Three Cultures” due to the coexistence of Christians, Jews, and Moslems – until the inquisition. Perched on a dramatic gorge above the Tagus River, its labyrinthine streets preserve a medieval feel. Toledo’s highlights included the Gothic Cathedral, the Alcazar fortress, and the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca. The synagogue was built in 1180 in Mudejar style. It was converted to a church in the 15th century.
We made our way back to Madrid and spent a few days visiting friends and enjoying good vermut before returning home. We continue to be struck by the diversity of each region in Spain and look forward to more exploring.
