We had both been to Malaga before and had seen the major sights (Gibralfaro Castle, Carmen Thyssen Museum, Málaga Cathedral “La Manquita”, Picasso Museum, Roman Theatre, Alcazaba, Mercado Central de Atarazanas). We visited some of them again, and spent a lot of our time getting to know the city. We were finally able to visit the Museo de Arte y Costumbres Populares, which was closed the last time we were in Malaga. The Roman Theatre is very central, it’s impossible to walk around the city without seeing it. Nevertheless, it’s absolutely amazing. This trip, we enjoyed food from the Central Market several times, and managed to have good vermut almost every evening. We also met up with one of Phil’s Spanish teachers, who gave us a lot of insight into how Malaga is coping with its surge in tourism.
From Malaga, we went to Tarifa. Tarifa is the southernmost city in Spain, and retains a distinctly Moorish feel. We used Tarifa as a base to take a day trip to Baelo Claudia, amazingly well-preserved Roman ruins near the Coast, with the ruins of an ancient fish paste factory. From Tarifa, we had plans to take the ferry to Tangier but sometimes, things just don’t work out according to plan. High winds meant we had to get a taxi to Algeciras, a port with larger boats. (see below), It was a bit hectic, but we all managed to figure out how to get to the other port.
We did finally get to Tangier – a remarkable old city. We spent several days exploring the Medina and surroundings. Joel and Wendy continued a trip through Morocco; we had a flight from Tangier to Barcelona – from what turned out to be one of the most barren airports we’ve ever been to in a major city.
We left Tangier and our friends and flew to Barcelona. As there was a train strike, Susan ended up getting a rideshare to her conference outside of Barcelona, while Phil was able to get a train to Zaragoza, an amazing mudejar city with roman ruins, and great museums. The city is famous for its local cuisine, and plaza with the Basilica del Pilar, La Seo Cathedral and the Aljafería Palace. Together with La Seo and the Aljafería, several other buildings form part of the Mudéjar Architecture of Aragon. There are remnants of the roman walls and gates, as well as a large roman amphitheater and museum. Zaragoza was also the site of horrific battles during the Spanish Civil War, one which led to the destruction of numerous historic buildings in the city center. We reconnected at the Barcelona train station to go to the airport and return home. How did people do this before cell phones?
Logistics
Plaza del Pilar/Bamboo House (Airbnb), Zaragoza
The location was beyond perfect. It’s just a one-minute walk from the municipal market and the Plaza de Pilar. There’s a large supermarket a couple of blocks away, plus lots of restaurants, cafes, and bars nearby.
Spain-Morocco Ferry
We were originally supposed to take the Tarifa-Tangier ferry, but this was cancelled due to high winds, so we took a taxi to the Algeciras ferry-to- Tangier Med – about 20km east of Tangier. The ferry company had no problem making the change, but late arrivals had difficulties. The crossing was short and uneventful.
Riad Amr Hotel, Tangier
Located in the medina (old city), yet perfectly quiet. It is a short walk to lots of restaurants and Tangier’s sights. It’s also a short walk from the Tarifa-Tangier ferry, which was supposed to be where we would arrive. Ins
Julieta Historical Apartment, Malaga
On the edge of the Casco Viejo (the pedestrianized old city), and just one block from the municipal market. The apartment was large and super comfortable, especially the huge living room.
Silos 19, Tarifa
Located right inside the old city. Our room was on the ground floor, accessed thru the restaurant. We thought this would make it noisy, but the heavy double-doors blocked 100% of the noise. It is a short walk to lots of restaurants, shopping, bus station, and ferry dock.
