About 15 years ago, we visited Guatemala for two weeks. Although we
had wanted to also visit Copan (in Honduras, just across the border),
every book we read told us that the border was impassable, crime was
endemic, and that the bureaucracy necessary to cross the border placed
it outside of our reach. Because of this, when we finally got to Antigua
Guatemala (near the border), we just didn't leave enough time to visit
Copan. What we found, on every telephone pole and hotel bulletin board,
were notices of day and two-day trips to Copan. We decided that someday
we would make a special trip to Honduras just to see the ruins of Copan.
When planning to again spend February away from the Boston weather in
Mexico, we decided to start in Copan. We flew from Boston to San Pedro
Sula and then took a bus to Copan Ruinas. We had an interesting
experience in San Pedro Sula: our ATM cards (same bank) didn’t work, and
we had no extra US$ nor the pin number of our credit card to get a cash
advance. We tried about 5 or 6 banks – and then finally lucked out at
Banco Atlántida. Did we mention that all the ATMs at the airport were
out of service? Next time, we’ll have a better backup plan!
Although the bus was very quick, about one hour from Copan we ran
into the most horrific traffic jam that we'd ever seen. A chemical
tanker truck coming up from Guatemala had run off the side of the road,
partially blocking it. Because of the danger posed by the chemical
contents, they closed the road for hours while they attempted to empty
the tanks and then get the truck out of the way. After 3 hours of little
progress, at about 5pm, we realized that it would soon be dark – and we
had no desire to spend the night in a bus. We decided to cross to the
other side of the accident and hitchhike into town. We were very lucky -
we travel light so could easily carry our bags past all the traffic, and
once past the accident scene walked along the line of cars coming from
Copan. Many were starting to turn around, and we lucked into meeting a
manager from one of the Copan hotels who had just come upon the queue of
cars and planned to turn back; he was more than happy to give us a lift.
We were quite relieved to finally get to our lovely hotel, La Casa
Café. Set among gardens with a lovely view of the valley, it was very
relaxing – with EXCELLENT Honduran coffee. Unfortunately, Copan Ruinas
was in the midst of tearing up its streets to replace its sewer lines,
and rainy weather had turned many of the streets near our hotel into a
mucky, muddy mess. The modest village of Copan was not all that
exciting. There are shops and cafes catering to the tourists, a small
museum, and a tropical bird sanctuary that exists pretty much for the
tourist trade – though we did enjoy seeing the rescued parrots and
toucans there.
But the ruins of Copan make any effort to get there worthwhile. This
is where the Mayan society reached its artistic peak. We were awestruck
by the statuary, design, and decoration of this city, along with the
excellent museum at the site. Although it took two days to get there and
two days to travel onwards, it was well worth every minute.
After our delightful stay in Copan we took the bus back to San Pedro
Sula and flew onward to Mexico City and Cuernavaca.
This is our fourth or fifth trip to Cuernavaca. It's a big city with
traffic, pollution, and not a lot of tourist attractions - but we now
have a lot of friends there. Because of these relationships, it felt
like we're coming home. We stayed at the house of Josefina where we
stayed the previous year. Sadly, the owner, Josefina passed away some
months before we arrived. This year her daughter and son were there and
extended a warm welcome to us. We had an opportunity to shop at the
Mercado, and enjoy a few relaxing days with our good friends. One of our
friends now has her own medical office in Cuernavaca, and we were so
glad to be one of her first visitors.
After a few days in Cuernavaca, we headed to Mexico City where Susan
met with colleagues and we both enjoyed the culture and vibrancy of this
amazing place. If you read the newspapers and listen to the news
reports, you would think that Mexico will is filled with violent gun
battles on the streets. In reality, Mexico City is like any other major
city on the planet. We saw no violence; we heard no gunfire; we
witnessed no criminal activity. There was nothing that made us feel
threatened. I feel sorry for people who have changed her vacation plans
based on exaggerated and alarmist news reports.
After a few days in Mexico City we took a bus to Oaxaca and began the
last two weeks of our fabulous vacation there. Through a tutor in
Oaxaca, we’d learned of a lovely B & B with the Familia Giron. The house
has several guest bedrooms that open onto a central patio, shaded by a
grapefruit tree and filled with birdcages. The family was warm and
welcoming, and the B & B provided a relaxing retreat and centrally
located base from which to enjoy Oaxaca.
Oaxaca itself is a beautiful city, although crawling with gringos,
tourists, and students. The restaurants had English menus, and many of
the pedestrian streets were lined with souvenir shops and yuppified
cafes. However, the ambience of the city didn’t suffer. We loved the
colonial architecture, the craft shops, and the fact that every evening
hundreds – perhaps thousands - of Oaxacans descend on the zócalo (the
city's main plaza) for the entertainment, dancing, and music. Our visit
coincided with the anniversary of the protests, and the political
parties staged rallies. Oddly, indigenous craftspeople are now barred
from setting up crafts stands on the zócalo (which were ubiquitous when
we’d been here 15 years ago) – except during the political events.
Another highlight of Oaxaca, at least for us foodies, is the
wonderful ice cream. Not far from our B & B was a plaza with 5 or 6
“nevaria” stalls – more like sorbet, our favorite was “beso de Oaxaca”
(kiss of Oaxaca) that included apples, pineapple, and carrots in a
wonderful blend. Of course, Oaxaca is known for chocolate and mole, and
we were obligated to stop for frequent samples at the many stalls
downtown that pull pedestrians in with their aroma. We also ate
frequently in the central market, and became addicted to the tamales
from a street vendor. Fortunately, we walked so much that we could
rationalize all of this eating!
We visited Monte Alban, where 15 years ago, along with Susan's
brother and family, we were treated to one of the most memorable tours
of any ruins we've ever been to. This charming (and eccentric) Zapotec
guide told us that Monte Alban had actually been a medical university,
and among the attendees were Moses, Jesus, and Mohammed. The fact that
these people didn’t live at the same time didn't seem to bother our
guide. To further his claim that this was a medical college he pointed
to the each of the murals and reinterpreted them as medical drawings. He
was also quite critical of the Mixtecs and used every opportunity to
convey his opinions. We had no such entertainment this time, though we
did meet one wonderful stone mask maker who told us about his history
working in the US and then resettling in his native village. In addition
to Monte Alban, we took time to explore Mitla and some of the smaller
ruins, including Yagul, Danzu, and Zaachila, each with its unique
history and art.
Since we had two weeks in Oaxaca, we had the luxury of exploring many
small towns in the valley of Oaxaca, and very much off the beaten path.
The Valley has been settled for thousands of years. The climate is
extremely arid and the area has ever been wealthy. However this area
also has a cultural wealth that you don't see in central Mexico. Each
village has a handicraft specialty. Arrazola is known for its “alebrijes”,
whimsical woodcarvings, while Atxompa, San Bartolo Coyotepec and Ocotlan
each have a unique type of pottery. Other villages specialize in rug
weaving and embroidery. We arranged our visits to these towns to
coincide with their weekly markets, and between these trips and the
shops in Oaxaca managed to fill a suitcase to bring home. We also
brought back some of the great Oaxaca mole and chocolate, reminders of
all the wonderful food we had in Oaxaca.
Logistics:
Copan Ruinas Hotel: Casa de Cafe
Run by an American expat and his Honduran partner, this small hotel
is just a few blocks outside of the center of town. They offer free
wi-fi, a delightful breakfast, and clean, comfortable accommodations.
www.casadecafecopan.com
San Pedro Sula: Maya Copan Hotel
Adequate and convenient, as well as moderately well-located.
www.hotelmayacopan.com
Mexico City Hotel: Hotel Canada
We used to stay at the Catedral. We changed our plans because the
Canada is more centrally located, right across the street from our
favorite Mexico City breakfast place, Café Popular. We made the right
choice; there was a huge and noisy construction project going on next to
the Catedral. The ‘free wifi’ in the Canada’s lobby didn’t work, but
they provided a cable connection. There are dozens of great places to
eat near Cinco de Mayo; we found a new favorite taqueria and had a great
meal at our old standby, Café Tacuba.
www.hotelcanada.com.mx
Oaxaca B&B/Homestay: La Familia Giron
We received a recommendation for the B&B/homestay of La Familia Giron.
This lovely home, a 5-10 minute walk from the zócalo, was charming. The
breakfasts were huge, and they were always willing to give us advice.
They speak only Spanish.
www.casagironoaxaca.zoomshare.com
Cuernavaca: La Casa de Josefina
This is where we stayed a year ago. Great location (about 10 minutes
north of the zócalo by bus, 10 minute walk from the school, 5 minute
walk from a large supermarket, and on many bus routes. We enjoyed our
stay immensely. The small garden is very pretty,
and the place is very quiet despite its proximity to Morelos and Avila
Comacho. Sadly, Josefina passed away some months before our return
visit. The apartments are now being managed by her son and daughter.
www.vacationrentals.com/vacation-rentals/27473.html
Oaxaca Spanish Teacher: Laura Olachea.
Laura is a superb Spanish tutor who can customize lessons for your
skill level and learning speed.
spanishclassesoaxaca@yahoo.com.
